Ghid complet de detailing

[Baracuda]

Pentru ca s-a discutat destul de mult pe aceasta tema, am gasit un ghid complet si foarte bine structurat de "How To :" pentru masinile noastre mai mult sau mai putin iubite/ingrijite.

Pasul nr. 1 din How To : Washing and Drying

Washing and Drying can be the most overlooked step during a detail, however, in reality is one of the most important steps. You may be asking yourself how washing and drying can be so important. The reason is because many of the imperfections in your paint (scratches, swirl marks, water spots, etc.) are caused due to improper washing and drying techniques. Our goal is to teach you how to effectively remove contamination while minimizing the possibility of creating more imperfections in your paint.

The diagram in the navigation screen on the top right shows a blown up cross section of your clear coat and what happens as you wash and dry your paint. The picture will change every 5 seconds to show the before and after effects of washing and drying. Notice how you go from moderate contamination to minor surface contamination. Keep in mind this may not always be visible contamination. Your paint may not be perfectly clean and prepped for the next step with just a normal washing.


Recommended Washing & Drying Products:

* 2 - 3x Quality Wash Mitts
* Automotive shampoo
* 2+ Quality Waffle Weave Drying Towels
* 2x 5 Gallon Wash Buckets
* 2x Grit Guard Inserts for each bucket
* Water Supply and Hose
* Bug and Tar Degreaser

Why do I need these products you may ask? Start with two to three wash mitts. Is one good enough? We strongly encourage using two wash mitts for many reasons. The main reason is your lower panels, front and rear bumpers, wheels and wheel wells get significantly dirtier than the rest of your vehicle and you do not want to be using the same mitt that just removed large particles of tar to touch your hood. Allocating one wash mitt just for those heavily contaminated areas is a smart move because you will not be using a contaminated wash mitt on your delicate paint. Using one mitt throughout is one major factor why people create swirls during the wash phase. Another reason we suggest using two wash mitts is that if you use one wash mitt for the entire vehicle, the life span of the mitt will be that much shorter due to heavy build up in one mitt. A heavily contaminated mitt requires you to purchase mitts more frequently and creates more risk to your paint. By allocating two wash mitts to your vehicle, you can choose one, preferably a Sheepskin Wash Mitt, for the parts of your vehicle that do not get extremely contaminated (from the knees up) and a second one, perhaps a more durable Lake Country Ulti-Mit, for the areas of that see the most contamination (from the knees down). A third mitt is recommend to dedicate to cleaning your wheels.

A quality lubricating shampoo is crucial when trying to safely remove contamination. Without proper lubrication you would be pushing dirt, pollen, tar, etc. across your paint and causing many imperfections in your clear coat. Properly lubricated shampoos will help lift contamination from the surface, creating a slick surface for easy contamination removal. A quality shampoo should also have the proper conditioners for your paint unlike dish soap. Dish soap, such as Dawn, will remove previous layers of wax to start with a fresh surface, however there are downsides to washing with dish soap over time. Dish soap can dry out your paint, dry out and discolor plastic, vinyl and rubber trim, and is harmful to your clear coat. There are better methods to strip the previous layers of sealant or wax that are beneficial to your paints surface, such as chemical polishes, abrasive polishes and clay barring your paint. Shampoos with conditioners work well because they can clean your freshly sealed or waxed vehicle without removing this protection.

Investing in high quality drying towels will not only save you time during the drying process while minimizing the possibility of adding swirls. Our towel of choice is a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel. This design has a small nap to pull contamination away from the surface as well as hold large amounts of water in its pockets. In some cases, you will only need one of these 25” x 32” towels to dry your entire vehicle assuming you follow our helpful tips and techniques (which will be explained in just a moment) during the drying process, but two is always great. It is the safest product we have tested to minimize the possibility of adding swirls to your clear coat. Its also essential that your drying towel stay as clean as possible because dragging a dirty towel across the paint can add swirls and very fine scratches. Make sure you don’t dry area that were not cleaned during the washing process like door jambs.

Two 5 gallon wash buckets is a must for any wash day. The reasoning will be described in further detail as we get into the how-to part of the tutorial, but one will be filled with water and suds and the second one with just water. Grit Guard Inserts help release contamination from your wash mitts as you glide them across the grid pattern in your rinse bucket. The insert also helps trap dirt and other unwanted contamination on the bottom of the bucket.

Water supply and hose is pretty obvious but should not be over looked. Flooding the surface of your vehicle is the best thing for minimizing the chance of adding imperfections to your paint so plenty of water will be necessary for pre-wash, rinse and final sheet drying.

Bug and tar degreaser is a great product to have around when you happen to run into stubborn bits of contamination that need to be pre-treated prior to the wash. The most common things this will be used on is tar, bug splatter and rail dust, but works on far more. Usually this product will be used on the lower panels, behind wheels, and the front and rear bumpers.
Back to Top
How To Properly Wash & Dry Your Vehicle:

Let us start by addressing some proper procedures to follow prior to actually washing the vehicle. First, find an area to work in with plenty of shade. With the sun beating on hot soapy water, it can cause water etching and spots on your vehicles paint. This will add more time in your routine removing them especially if you are just washing and drying for maintenance and not planning on doing a full routine. The paint and wheels should be cool to the touch prior to washing. Next step, take a look at your attire, no jeans, no belts, no buttons, no rivets, no zippers, and no jewelry or other potentially hazardous objects. You may ask why, but the reasoning is pretty simple, they all will easily scratch your paints surface even with very minimal pressure. Also at this time ensure that all windows are completely up and doors, hood and trunk are completely closed and remove license plates or other easily removable items from the vehicle.
Prep Stage:

1. Fill up one 5 gallon wash bucket about 3/4 full of water and the remaining 1/4 full of suds.
2. Fill up the second 5 gallon wash bucket about 1/2 full of water.

Washing:


1. Rinse down an area of the vehicle that you plan on washing. Start from the top of the vehicle and work your way down. Also, work in sections such as front fenders and hood, or passenger side and half of the roof.

2. Walk around your vehicle and pre-treat any areas that have a lot of contamination, such as bug splatter, tar, and other road grime that may be difficult to remove, with a paint safe degreaser.

3. Allow degreaser to sit on the contaminated surface for a few minutes (see manufacturers suggestion)

4. Dunk your wash mitt dedicated for heavily contaminated areas in the bucket of suds.

5. Gently glide your wash mitt across the areas that were treated with degreaser and heavily contaminated areas, such as, lower panels, front bumper and rear bumper.

6. Return to the second wash bucket without suds and shake out your wash mitt in the clean water to remove loose contamination in the pile of the mitt. Then place the mitt back into the bucket of suds to continue washing.

7. Rinse off of each panel of the vehicle as it is completed.

8. Continue washing and rinsing the vehicle in the same fashion for all panels heavily contaminated.

9. Empty the two buckets and refill them per instructions in the prep stage listed above.

10. Dunk your second wash mitt into the suds, which should be your cleanest wash mitt, and gently glide your wash mitt across the rest of the vehicle starting top down. Work in a logical pattern and rinse the vehicle every couple of panels.

11. Return to the second wash bucket without suds and shake out your wash mitt in the clean water to remove loose contamination in the pile of the mitt. Then place the mitt back into the bucket of suds to continue washing.

12. Rinse off of each panel of the vehicle as it is completed.

13. Once the entire vehicle has been washed and rinsed, remove the spray nozzle from the hose. Starting from the top of the vehicle sheet free flowing water from the hose off of the vehicle. You should begin to notice less water accumulation on the surface compared to just rinsing off the vehicle. When working down the sides of the vehicle, move the hose from left to right while getting lower and lower, this will ensure the water floods off of the vehicle and will cut your drying time down considerably.

[Baracuda]

Drying:

1. After the vehicle has been sheeted off using the technique described above, take out your drying towels.

2. Blot-dry any large pools of water with your drying towel. This will help get the towel damp which can increase its ability to absorb.

3. Continue around the vehicle lightly wiping off any remaining water on your vehicle.

4. If you plan on using a blower, like the Metro Vac 'n Blo, or an air compressor to blow out any seams and cracks, this would be the time to do it.

5. Give the vehicle a final wipe down to ensure there is no water left on the vehicle.

After Washing & Drying Your Vehicle...

The next logical step in the complete detailing process is to use a clay bar on your vehicle. Using a clay bar on your paint will completely remove surface contamination that was not able to be removed from a normal wash. To test to see if your paint could benefit from a clay bar, glide your hand across your paint to feel for rough spots. To amplify the ability to feel for contamination, put your hand in a plastic sandwhich bag as your inspect your paint.


Produse recomandate pentru Wash & Dry :

Pentru partea superioara a automobilului (Capota, aripi, usi)
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Acce...ash-Mitt-P120/

Pentru partea inferioara (Spoilere, praguri)
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...Ulti-Mit-P121/

Pentru jante si contra aripa
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...Scrubber-P122/

Sampon Auto :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Shampoo-C4/

Prosop uscat :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...ng-Towel-P100/

Degresant :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Pre-Wash-Degreaser-C3/

Aparat pentru suflat apa ramasa
http://www.detailedimage.com/Metro-V...Vac-n-Blo-P80/



Pasul nr. 2 din How To : Clay Bar - Contamination Removal

Using a clay bar is the ideal prep stage prior to applying a polish, glaze, sealant and wax. In order to achieve maximum shine, gloss and depth, the surface must be as clean as possible for light to pass through the clear coat and give maximum reflection.

Take a look in the navigation screen and notice that contamination is still on the clear coat. Since you have just washed the vehicle removing the light contamination, most of the remaining contamination is tightly bonded to the clear coat. Using the clay bar on your clear coat will help further remove both the macro-contamination (visible) as well as the micro-contamination (non-visible). With no contamination on the surface sealants and waxes can bond properly to the clear coat, which creates a more durable layer of protection. Sealants and waxes can not bond with dirt, debris and other contaminates, so there is little to no protection where contamination resides. Applying any product over contamination can grind contaminates into the clear coat causing swirls, premature break down of detailing product, dirty applicator pads, and diminish overall results. Use a clay bar remove this surface contamination for a higher quality detail. To make the clear coat look even brighter use a polish as discussed in the next step.

Recommended Clay Bar Products:

* Clay Bar
* Clay Lube
* 2 - 4x Microfiber Towels

Clay Bar Facts:


* Using a clay bar on your paint does NOT remove swirl marks

* Using a clay bar removes contamination and better prepares your paint for the next step

* Dropped clay bars should be thrown directly into the garbage because of the high risk of picking up large contaminates that can seriously damage the vehicles finish

* Shampoo & water mixture is another alternative for clay lube, however, re-washing the vehicle is recommended prior to moving to the next step when using this mixture

* Re-washing after using a clay bar is recommended, but not necessary if you properly remove any excess clay lube with a clean microfiber towel and/or a quick detail solution

* When working a clay bar, it should be done in small sections

* When your paints surface is not smooth you should use a clay bar

* Clay bar will remove some bug smear, tar, rail dust and other contamination tightly bound to the clear coat

* Replace clay bar when it becomes heavily contaminated

Clay Bar How-To:

Clay bar will remove both micro and macro contamination so the surface is smooth and clean. The actual process on how to clay bar might intimidate some people, but it is relatively easy once you get the hang of it. If you follow these simple steps you will have effectively prepped your surface for the next step.
Prep Stage:

At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed and dried. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. If you have a 200g or larger size bar you should break it up into pieces. For ease of use take the piece of clay and flatten it (similar to a pancake shape). Keep the bar flat on the surface for constant contact.
Instructions for Clay Bar:


1. Working in 2’ x 2’ sections or small panels, mist the desired area with your clay lubricant. Make sure to use enough clay lube so the clay does not skid or stick to the paint. This can cause fine scratches and add more work to remove clay stuck to the surface.

2. Place the clay within the 2’ x 2’ area and gently glide the bar left to right. You will feel the contamination being absorbed into the clay bar. Once the surface is smooth you are ready to move onto the next step.

3. Using a clean microfiber towel(s), buff off the remaining clay lube.

4. Now reshape the clay bar by compressing it and flattening it, so it exposes a fresh surface on the clay bar.

5. Move in a logical pattern around the entire vehicle repeating the previous steps until all the desired surfaces are completed.

Clay Bar Tips:


* Listening to your clay bar can also give you a good indication if the surface is clean or still has contamination.

* Some people prefer to re-wash their vehicle after using the clay bar to remove any missed clay lubricant.

* If your towel begins to streak when removing excess clay lubrication, flip it over to a dry section or use a fresh towel.

* Use plenty of clay lube to ensure smooth movement of clay bar.

* Do not apply the clay lube in direct sun or to a warm surface.

After Using a Clay Bar:

The next step in the detailing process is polishing your paint. Polishing will remove imperfections in your paint such as swirl marks, scratches, water spots, oxidation and more. This is the part of the detailing process that the most dramatic results can be achieved.

Clay Bar
http://www.detailedimage.com/Clay-Ma...-Clay-Bar-P41/

Clay Lube
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...31/Luber-P198/

Prosop microfibre
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/

[Baracuda]

Pasul nr. 3 din How To : Polishing - Paint Correction

Va recomand totusi sa apelati la o persoana cu experienta. Sculele costa destul iar pe langa asta riscati sa faceti mai mult rau decat bine

Compounds and Cutting Polishes can drastically improve the condition of the clear coat. This step can help faded, oxidized, swirled and scratched clear coats look significantly better. The cutting polish helps restore a transparent clear coat, which allows for light to pass directly through the clear coat, thus creating a bright reflection with a deep shine. This step produces some of the most noticeable results that make you proud of your vehicles stunning appearance. Compounds are more aggressive and usually more abrasrasive than cutting polishes and can remove deeper marks, scratches, swirls and other imperfections on the clear coat.

A cutting polish will remove a micro-thin layer of your clear coat. It helps smooth out scratches, swirls and removes watermarks that are etched into the clear coat. We suggest using a cutting polish once or twice a year or as needed to treat imperfections as they happen. Your clear coat can appear hazy from using a cutting polish. This slight haze is to be expected and will be buffed out with finer polishes, also known as finishing polishes in the next step.

Finishing Polishes are light polishes designed to really shine the paint and restore a glossy finish. As most detailers know it’s how you prep the surface that really determines the end result of your detail. Finishing polishes will help remove old wax or sealant, oxidation, embedded contaminates, very fine surface imperfections and more. This process helps clean the clear coat, which allows more light to pass through, thus creating a deeper shine. Using a finishing polish will restore a brilliant gloss. Hazing that may have occured from a more aggressive compound or cutting polished should be completely removed and the surface should be extremely smooth to the touch. This is the perfect step to take to prep your paint after using a cutting polish or before you use a glaze, sealant or wax.

Recommended Polishing Products:

* Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
* Velcro Backing Plate
* Yellow Cutting Pad
* Orange Light Cutting Pad
* White Polishing Pad
* Black Finishing Pad
* Compound
* Cutting Polish
* Finishing Polish
* Paint Cleanser
* Microfiber Removal Towels

Is A Buffer Necessary?

Below are some of the major benefits of using the Porter Cable 7424 with the velcro backing plate. The velcro backing plate screws directly into the PC7424 and allows you to easily swap pads on and off. The velcro backing plate is also 6” in diameter, which evenly distributes pressure from the buffer throughout the entire 6.5” diameter of the pad. Here are some other benefits:
A) It saves you time and energy.

When applying coat after coat by hand, you tend to get tired and slow down. Your fingertips exert pressure over a very small area so it requires many passes just to cover a small area. The 6.5" circular pad on the Porter Cable 7424 can cover a larger surface area quickly and easily. The Porter Cable is only 6lbs and has two comfortable places for your hands to guide the buffer. The buffer completes 2,500 to 6,000 orbits per minute, which creates plenty of pressure that’s nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. On average the buffer can help you complete a coat in 50% - 75% of the time it takes to complete hand applications.
B) You achieve more consistent results.

When you guide the buffer across the clear coat it creates pressure that breaks down the product and works it into the clear coat. Alternatively, hand applications force you to attempt to apply the same exact force through a multiple step detailing process. Most hand applications yield varying levels of pressure that may leave the process looking slightly inconsistent or blotchy. You are exerting a lot of energy during hand applications, especially for polishes, which require steady pressure to perform their best. The Porter Cable comes with a dial that controls the buffer’s speed, so you get the exact same results throughout each coat.
C) You obtain better results.

Because of the Porter Cable’s random orbit pattern you will not risk burning the paint like you would with traditional rotary buffers. The even distribution of heat and pressure will break down the product evenly so the results are perfectly uniform. This uniform application is essential for even protection and shine over all the clear-coated surfaces. The PC 7424 is compatible with a variety of different pads that help best work in certain products. Sealants and waxes should generally be applied with a soft finishing pad. The correct pad selection is crucial to achieving maximum results.

Instructions for Polishing:

1. Dispense a few dabs of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product)

2. With the PC off smear the product over a 18" x 18" area on the clear coat.

3. To help spread the product thinly and evenly, turn the PC unit on at a low speed setting (about speed setting 3) and spread the product out evenly over the 18" x 18" section

4. Increase the speed setting to 5 or 6 and begin to apply light to medium pressure to the head of the PC unit. If the PC bogs down, you are applying too much pressure. (More experienced users may want use higher speed settings to attain better results. Newer users should start at lower speed levels until comfortable.)

5. Start in the top left corner of your 18" x 18" area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 1 ” per second. As you reach the far side of your box, move the PC down enough so that you would overlap the previous pass by about 50%. Continue this pattern until you have passed over each part of the 18" x 18" box. Proceed to follow the same pattern with verticle passes and move the buffer left to right until the entire 18" x 18" area has been buffed.

6. With the PC still on, continue to work the buffer from top to bottom a second time, still moving at 1" per second, and overlapping each pass by 50%. This time around, use little to no pressure so the pad spins freely for this set of passes. Continue this pattern until the entire 18" x 18" area has been completed for the second time as described in step 5, just using the weight of the buffer as the pressure. After completing the 18" x 18" area turn the buffer off. (Note: At this time the entire 18" x 18" panel should have received eight passes. If the polish dusts excessively, the product was overworked and can be stopped prior to eight complete passes.)

7. After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product. On average we recommend allocating 3 towels per coat to ensure no streaking from excess product build up.

8. After a few panels take the time to remove excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated, or ideally, replace the pad with a fresh one at this time. To clean the pad, simply spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean soft bristled toothbrush to remove product build up in the pores of the foam pad.

9. Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.

10. When finished, clean your pads immediately to extend the life of your pads and maintain the highest quality results possible.

Buffer :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Porter-...l-Buffer-P110/

Buffer Plate :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...able-7424-P56/

Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...tting-Pad-P59/

Light Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...tting-Pad-P58/

Polishing Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...shing-Pad-P57/

Finish Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...shing-Pad-P60/

Paint Cleanser :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Paint-Cleaner-C13/

Microfibre Removal Towels :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/

[Baracuda]

Pasul nr. 4 din How To : Glaze

Glazing your paint is a step that many professional detailers have used for years that is now becoming popular among weekend detailers. The reason glazes are so popular is for how well they work at hiding imperfections and adding gloss to the finish. True glazes are ultra fine polishes designed to cling to imperfections and fill them in. The oils in the glaze will reflect the color of the surrounding paint to make the paint’s finish look uniform. The glaze will also make the surface look rich and glossy for a show room finish. This is a perfect step for: after using polishes, newer vehicles that do not want to use polishes yet, vehicle’s entered in shows and anyone looking to really make their paint “pop”.

The picture above shows how the glaze will help fill in and hide swirls and scratches that could not be removed by buffing. The clay and oil fillers cling to the sides of the imperfection and optically make the paint look like the imperfections have disappeared or been reduced. Make sure you follow up with a sealant and / or wax to protect the glaze and extend its life. This is discussed in detail during the next step.

Recommended Products:

* Glaze
* Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
* Velcro Backing Plate
* Finishing Pad

How-to Glaze

Glazes can really make the paint glow and look its best. You’ll be very happy with the deep shine that a glaze leaves behind. This step will not remove swirls and other imperfections but it will fill them in as you can see in the picture above. A variety of factors will affect the results of the detail such as: manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, type of product, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.
Prep Stage:

At this point the vehicle should be wash & dried, and already treated with clay bar, cutting polish and finishing polish if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad
Instructions for Applying a Glaze:

1. Dispense a few dabs of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product)

2. With the PC off smear the product over a 18" x 18" area on the clear coat.

3. To help spread the product thinly and evenly, turn the PC unit on at a low speed setting (about speed setting 3) and spread the product out evenly over the 18" x 18" section

4. Increase the speed setting to 4 or 5 and before you begin.

5. Start in the top left corner of your 18" x 18" area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3 ” per second. As you reach the far side of your box, move the PC down enough so that you would overlap the previous pass by about 50%. Continue this pattern until you have passed over each part of the 18" x 18" box. Proceed to follow the same pattern with verticle passes and move the buffer left to right until the entire 18" x 18" area has been buffed.

6. After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product. On average we recommend allocating 3 towels per coat to ensure no streaking from excess product build up.

7. After a few panels take the time to remove excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated, or ideally, replace the pad with a fresh one at this time. To clean the pad, simply spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean soft bristled toothbrush to remove product build up in the pores of the foam pad.

8. Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.

9. When finished, clean your pads immediately to extend the life of your pads and maintain the highest quality results possible.

After Using a Glaze...

After applying a glaze, protect the fillers and your vehicle with a coat of sealant and / or wax. Sealants typically give you 3 - 6 months of protection on your paint, as well as enhance the shine of your vehicle. Carnauba waxes provide around 2 - 8 weeks of protection, but further enhance the depth and gloss of the vehicle. Waxes can also provide another layer of strong protection that helps in bird dropping etching, water spots and more. Many detailing enthusiasts use a combination of both a synthetic sealant as the base coat of protection and top it (after the sealant has cured) with a natural carnauba wax.

Glaze :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Glaze-C14/

Buffer :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Porter-...l-Buffer-P110/

Buffer Plate :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...able-7424-P56/

Finishing Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...shing-Pad-P60/

[Baracuda]

Pasul nr 5 din How To : Polymer & Acrylic Sealants

Sealants are a great way to protect your vehicles painted surfaces and increase the shine. They will adhere tightly to the clear coat for a barrier of protection with extended durability and UV protection. The surface should shine bright and vibrant after applying a sealant. The protection will last anywhere from 3 – 9 months depending on conditions such as: previous steps in the detailing process, manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, temperature, sealant used, how many coats are applied, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.

Recommended Products:

* Polymer Sealant
* Porter Cable 7424 Buffer
* Velcro Backing Plate
* Fine Finishing Pad
* Foam or Microfiber Hand Applicator Pad
* 1-3x Microfiber Removal Towels

How-To Apply Your Sealant

Sealants are great options for many reasons. They are typically one of the easiest products to apply and remove, while giving your paint one of the most important characteristics after properly prepping the paint, durable protection. This step will not remove swirls and other imperfections but it add a thin barrier of protection that makes future cleaning significantly easier and prevent certain imperfections from occuring. A variety of factors will affect the results of the detail such as: manufacturer’s clear coating process, age and condition of vehicle, type of product, hand or buffer application, type of pad or applicator, skill of detailer and more. All of these factors ultimately mean that finding out what works best for your particular vehicle takes a little bit of trial and error.

Prep Stage:

At this point the vehicle should be freshly washed, dried and already treated with clay bar, cutting polish, finishing polish and glaze if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch. Attach the appropriate pad to the Porter Cable 7424, centering the pad on the backing plate. Whether doing the application by hand or with a buffer be sure to match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad
Instructions for Sealing with a Porter Cable 7424:

1. Dispense a few dabs of product around the outer edge of the pad. (Note: If the pad is brand new add a little extra product)

2. With the PC off smear the product over a 18" x 18" area on the clear coat.

3. To help spread the product thinly and evenly, turn the PC unit on at a low speed setting (about speed setting 3) and spread the product out evenly over the 18" x 18" section

4. Increase the speed setting to 3.5 or 4 before you begin.

5. Start in the top left corner of your 18" x 18" area and move the PC from left to right at a pace of 3 ” per second. As you reach the far side of your box, move the PC down enough so that you would overlap the previous pass by about 50%. Continue this pattern until you have passed over each part of the 18" x 18" box. Proceed to follow the same pattern with verticle passes and move the buffer left to right until the entire 18" x 18" area has been buffed.

6. After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product. On average we recommend allocating 3 towels per coat to ensure no streaking from excess product build up.

7. After a few panels take the time to remove excess product from the pad so it does not get saturated, or ideally, replace the pad with a fresh one at this time. To clean the pad, simply spin the buffer on a low speed and agitate it with a clean soft bristled toothbrush to remove product build up in the pores of the foam pad.

8. Continue this entire process until the entire vehicle has been buffed.

9. When finished, clean your pads immediately to extend the life of your pads and maintain the highest quality results possible.


Instructions for Sealing by hand:

1. Dispense a few drops of product on the applicator pad.

2. Outline your 18" x 18" area you plan on working in

3. Start in the top left corner of your 18" x 18" area and work the sealant in small circles with little to no pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.

4. Repeat the same process moving up and down.

5. After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.

6. Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been sealed

7. Clean you applicator immediately after use to extend the life of your applicator and maintain the highest quality results possible.

After Applying Your Sealant...

When you have finished applying a coat of sealant, you should allow the product to cure on the paint for at least 24 hours. This is the time where the sealant cross links and forms the strongest protection. After the 24 hour cure period, you can apply a second coat of sealant or you may wish to top your sealant with a natural carnauba wax. Carnauba waxes further enhance the depth and gloss and really give off that wet look. It is also argued that carnauba waxes provide stronger protection than sealants for things like bird dropping etching or water spots.


Polymer Sealant :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Sealant-C15/

Buffer :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Sealant-C15/

Buffer Plate :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...able-7424-P56/

Finishing Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...shing-Pad-P61/

Foam Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Acce...cator-Pad-P94/

Microfiber Towels :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/



Pasul nr 6 din How To : Carnauba Waxes

For additional pop, consider topping your paint with a carnauba paste wax. A natural carnauba wax will add a layer of protection which usually will bead water tighter, which helps prevent water spots, and protects slightly better for bird droppings. It also adds a layer of depth and gloss that sealants are unable to achieve. The reason why people don't always resort to a wax is because the durability is short lived compared to quality polymer sealants. Expect anywhere from 2 - 8 weeks out of a wax.

Recommended Products:

* Carnauba Wax
* Foam or Microfiber Hand Applicator Pad
* 1-3x Microfiber Removal Towels

How-To Apply Your Carnauba Wax

Prep Stage:

At this point the vehicle should be just washed & dried and already treated with clay bar, cutting polish, finishing polish , glaze and / or sealant if desired. For ease of use and best results the vehicle should be worked on in a shaded area where the paint is cool to the touch.

Instructions for Waxing by Hand:

1. Mist your applicator pad with a spritz of quick detailer solution or distilled water

2. Gently glide your applicator pad over the paste wax

3. Smear the wax on to your paint while outlining your 18" x 18" area you plan on working in

4. Start in the top left corner of your 18" x 18" area and work the wax in small circles with little to no pressure moving from left to right, overlapping each pass by 50%.

5. Repeat the same process moving up and down.

6. After completing a section or panel use a paint safe microfiber towel to wipe off any remaining excess product. Replace towel if it smears or becomes saturated with product.

7. Continue this process until the entire vehicle has been sealed

8. Clean you applicator immediately after use to extend the life of your applicator and maintain the highest quality results possible.

Wax :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Wax-C16/

Hand Pad :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...ator-Pad-P107/

Removal Towels
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/

[Baracuda]

Pasul nr. 7 din How To : Leather Care

Leather seats have always been the staple of luxury and brought tremendous pride to vehicle owners. Leather seats look excellent, feel comfortable and last quite a long time with the proper cleaning, conditioning and protection. Leather cleaners are designed to safely remove contaminates that clog the leather’s pores and make the leather look dirty. Leather conditioners replace proteins and other natural properties that fade from leather. UV protection can be provided to most synthetic and coated leather surfaces to help prevent fading from the sun. The three basic types of seats are synthetic leather (leatherette), coated leather and raw leather. These materials all have a slightly different look and feel but they are cared for almost exactly the same. No matter what type seat you have it’s important to care for your leather on a regular basis. Over time the leather will loose some of its natural properties which allow the leather to expand and contract when passengers get in and out of the vehicle. Dry seats are less flexible so they are more likely to crack and crease. By removing contaminates and replacing the lost proteins you can keep your leather looking excellent for decades to come.

Leather Care Products:

* Leather Cleaner
* Leather Conditioner
* Leather Protectant
* 2x Terry Cloth Applicator Pads
* 3 - 5x Product Removal Towels

Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean - Product Directions:

1. Vacuum up loose debris and contaminates from your leather, especially around crevices and seams. Be careful that your vacuum’s tip does not scratch the leather.

2. Wipe down the seats with a slightly damp cloth or microfiber towel to help remove loose contaminates.

3. Pour the Rejuvenator Oil on your hand or a clean applicator pad and work it in to the leather’s surface. You should apply 1 – 4 ounces per seat depending on the leather’s condition. Make sure you thoroughly apply the Rejuvenator Oil around cracks, seems and stitching.

4. Put your vehicle in direct sun for several hours and keep the windows up to create a sauna like affect or you can turn on your heated seats. The heat will help open up the pores of the leather and allows the Rejuvenator Oil to further penetrate the leather. If you’re going to let your vehicle sit in the sun you may want to apply at least 2 ounces of the Rejuvenator Oil so it can continue to soak in to the leather.

5. Pour the Prestine Clean on a clean applicator pad and work it into the leather, which will have some of the Rejuvenator Oil on them still. Each seat will typically require .5 – 2 ounces for a thorough cleaning. Let the Prestine Clean sit for 10 – 15 minutes.

6. Thoroughly wipe the area with a damp microfiber cloth to remove contaminates that have risen to the surface and any excess product. Use a clean cloth and fold it in fourths so you can continuously use a clean side of the towel.

7. Follow up with a dry microfiber towel to ensure the seats are dry.

Lexol Cleaner and Conditioner - Product Directions


1. Vacuum up loose debris and contaminates from your leather, especially around crevices and seams. Be careful that your vacuum’s tip does not scratch the leather.

2. Wipe down the seats with a slightly damp cloth or microfiber towel to help remove loose contaminates.

3. Apply 1 – 2 sprays of the Cleaner on a wet applicator pad and lightly buff the cleaner in to seats and wait 5 – 10 minutes.

4. Wipe the seats down with a damp microfiber cloth to remove contaminates that have risen to the surface.

5. Apply 1 – 2 sprays of the Conditioner on a dry applicator and lightly buff the conditioner in to the areas of the seat you just cleaned. You may want to apply a little extra around seams and stitching. Let the conditioner sit for 5 – 10 minutes.

6. Wipe the area with a dry microfiber cloth to remove any excess conditioner.

Cleaner and Conditioner in One Bottle - Instructions

1. Vacuum up loose debris and contaminates from your leather, especially around crevices and seams. Be careful that your vacuum’s tip does not scratch the leather.

2. Wipe down the seats with a slightly damp cloth or microfiber towel to help remove loose contaminates.

3. Pour the product on an applicator pad and lightly buff the product in to seats and wait 10 minutes.

4. Wipe the seat down with a clean microfiber cloth to remove contaminates that have risen to the surface or any excess product.

Properly Protect Your Leather


1. Spray leather protection on a clean microfiber towel outside of the vehicle to avoid overspray.

2. Lightly wipe down the seats, working in the product evenly. Buff off any excess residue with a clean microfiber cloth. Do not spray leather protection on your steering wheel.

Leather Care Tips

* Always test a product on a non-visible area first to test for color fastness

* Clean, condition and protect your leather regularly to help prevent cracking, fading and stretching


Cleaner :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Cleaner-C50/

Conditioner :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Conditioner-C51/

Protectant :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Protection-C61/

Pads :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Acce...pplicator-P93/

Removal Towels
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/

[Baracuda]

Pasul nr. 8 din How To : Automotive Glass Care

Clean and optically clear glass is essential to driving safe. Don’t take any chances by driving with contaminates, haze and moisture build up on your glass. Driving in rain or in the dark can be very dangerous in of itself so don’t increase your risks with glass that you can not easily see through. Glass often has many micro pores where moisture and contaminates cling to. It’s important to remove these embedded contaminates and seal your glass for optimal driving conditions. Modern technology has provided many great products that will help you clean your wiper blades, deep clean your glass, force moisture to bead up, prevent fog from forming and so much more. Develop a regular glass care routine to ensure you are driving safely.

Recommended Glass Maintenance Products:

* Stoner Invisible Glass
* 2x All Purpose Microfiber Towels
* 1x Low Nap Glass Polishing Towel

How-To Properly Clean Glass

1. Park your vehicle in the shade before and during the cleaning to ensure the glass is cool

2. Spray or pour the glass cleaner on a clean microfiber towel outside of the vehicle to prevent product overspray

3. Roll down your windows about 2” so you can clean the very top of the glass and then put them back up to clean the remainder of the glass. Fold your All Purpose Microfiber towel (16” x 16”) in fourths and buff your cleaner into the glass. Move the towel in logical manner so you evenly clean the entire surface.

4. You can use your second All Purpose Microfiber Towel dry or with a very light mist of distilled water or quick detailer to help remove any remaining residue. Fold the microfiber towel in fourths and buff the entire surface in a logical manner.

5. Fold your Glass Microfiber Towel (16” x 16”) in fourths and buff the glass one more time to fully remove any remaining residue. Apply some pressure and work the towel slowly to ensure no streaking.

Recommended Glass Care - Deep Cleaning & Protection:

* Glass Science Glass Scrub
* Glass Science Rain Clear Gel
* Stoner Invisible Glass
* 303 Wiper Treatment
* 6x All Purpose Microfiber Towels
* Glass Microfiber Towel
* Foam Applicator Pad

Deep Glass Cleaning & Protection How-To

1. Park your vehicle in the shade before and during the cleaning to ensure the glass is cool.

2. Wipe down your windshield wiper blades with the 303 Wiper Treatment to remove contaminates. Roll down your windows and use the 303 Wiper Treatment to clean the rubber trim that the glass glides up and down against.

3. Thoroughly rinse your exterior glass so there is plenty of water on the glass and your Foam Applicator Pad. Apply a nickel sized drop of the Glass Science Glass Scrub on the applicator. Work the applicator pad in a circular motion with overlapping passes on your exterior glass. Typically one nickel sized drop is enough to clean all of the glass, but reapply more as needed.

4. Thoroughly rinse the surface after each section you complete.

5. Spray or pour the glass cleaner on a clean microfiber towel outside of the vehicle to prevent overspray. Note: You may not need to clean your exterior glass with this step.

6. Roll down your windows about 2” so you can clean the very top of the glass and then put them back up to clean the bottom. Fold your first All Purpose Microfiber towel (16” x 16”) in fourths and buff the glass. Move the towel in logical manner so you evenly clean the entire surface.

7. You can use your second All Purpose Microfiber Towel dry or with a very light mist of water or quick detailer to help remove the remaining residue. Fold the microfiber towel in fourths and buff the entire surface in a logical manner.

8. Fold your Glass Microfiber Towel (16” x 16”) in fourths and buff the glass one more time to fully remove any remaining residue.

9. Pour a nickel sized drop of the Rain Clear Gel on a clean microfiber towel and buff it on the exterior glass. One drop should be plenty for each section of glass or half of a windshield.

10. With a clean microfiber towel buff off the remaining residue. You may need a light mist of water or quick detailer to help remove any streaks.

11. Pour a nickel sized drop of the Fog Clear on a clean microfiber towel and buff it on the interior glass. One drop should be plenty for each section of glass or half of a windshield.

12. With a clean microfiber towel buff off the remaining residue. You may need a light mist of water or quick detailer to help remove any streaks.

13. Check your glass to ensure there are no streaks and step back and admire your clean, clear and safe glass!

* Buff your interior and exterior glass in different directions, such as up and down or side to side. By buffing the interior and exterior glass in different directions you can better understand which side of the glass streaks may be on.
* Never use an ammonia based cleaner on tinted windows.
* Do not use an excessive amount of glass cleaner because that means you will have to remove more cleaner from the glass later for streak free glass.


Glass Care Maintenance :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Stoner-...le-Glass-P115/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...ng-Towel-P102/

Glass Care Deep Cleaning & Protection:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Glass-S...ass-Scrub-P52/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Glass-S...ain-Clear-P51/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Stoner-...le-Glass-P115/
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...Treatment-P16/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...ng-Towel-P102/
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Acce...cator-Pad-P94/



Pasul nr. 9 din How To : Interior Dressings

Interior dressings are designed to help protect your interior and add a nice bold finish. Surfaces that have prolonged exposure to the sun, like the dashboard, are prone to fading from UV rays. Applying a coating of protection will help prevent UV fading and keep your interior looking freshly detailed.

Recommended Products:

* Interior Protectant
o 303 Aerospace Protectant
o Poorboy's Natural Look
* 1-3x All Purpose Microfiber Towels


How-To Apply Your Interior Dressing

Prep Stage:

You should apply your interior protectant on top of a clean surface. Most interior stains can be cleaned with an all purpose cleaner such as 303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner or 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover.

Instructions for Applying the Interior Dressing:

1. Spray or pour the protectant on to a clean microfiber towel outside the vehicle, to avoid overspray or splatter. Usually 1 – 2 sprays is more than enough to cover a small area.

2. Wipe the desired area evenly with a light coating of product.

3. Give the panel a final wipe down to ensure there is no glossy reflection on the dashboard that could affect your driving and to give a bold matte finish

Interior Protectant :
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...rotectant-P12/

Natural Look :
http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboy...ural-Look-P34/

Towels :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/

Pentru pete se recomanda :
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...l-Cleaner-P11/

http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...t-Remover-P15/

[Baracuda]

Pasul nr. 10 din How To : Cleaning and Protecting Exterior Plastic and Vinyl Trim

UV rays, road salt, road grime, tire dressing sling and more can fade and discolor your vehicles exterior trim. Your exterior trim can often be over looked during a quick detail, however for optimal results you should care for the trim regularly. With regular care your trim will look great for years to come, instead of becoming an eye sore. During a full detail you should clean and protect your trim to help create a contrast between your paint and the trim. The trim and paint will often look much better when there is a sharper contrast between them.

Recommended Products:

* 1x Degreaser
o P21S Total Auto Wash
o Poorboy's World Bio Degradable Degreaser
o 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover
* 1x Exterior Trim Dressing
o 303 Aerospace Protectant
o Poorboy's World Trim Restorer
o Poorboy's World Natural Look
* 2 - 4x All Purpose Microfiber Towels


How-To Clean and Protect Exterior Trim

Prep Stage:

Wash and dry your vehicle to remove loose contaminates on the trim.
Exterior Trim Directions

1. Spray degreaser on an All Purpose Microfiber Towel and wipe the trim. Spraying the trim directly could result in degreaser on the paint. This could strip off or weaken the protective layers on your paint.

2. If your trim is textured, consider using a soft to medium bristled brush to deeply clean all of the cracks and crevices.

3. After cleaning, wipe dry with a microfiber towel.

4. Spray the protectant on the second All Purpose Microfiber Towel and wipe the trim.

5. If desired you can apply a second coat to ensure even and thorough coverage.

6. With a dry microfiber towel, buff to desired level of gloss.

Degresant :
http://www.detailedimage.com/P21S-M1...Auto-Wash-P87/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboy...Degreaser-P39/
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...t-Remover-P15/

Exterior Trim Dressing :
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...rotectant-P12/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboy...-Restorer-P35/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Poorboy...ural-Look-P34/

Towels :
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...se-Towel-P103/




Am terminat, sper sa va ajute iar masinile voastre sa fie mult mai ingrijite

WTB Sticky

[.:indie:.]

gata, asteptam sa termini ca sa zic ca prefer sa dau 10 mil sa o duc undeva sa o faca bine

[Baracuda]

Al dreq !

Nu e de bani, mie unu imi place sa stau in garaj sa o giugiulesc

[Fuzz]

TU ai garaj

[.:indie:.]

Si mie mi-ar placea, cu conditia sa vina o camioneta sa imi aduca toate sculele, substantele si jmekeriile alea de care ai pomenit.
Nici nu vreau sa ma gandesc cat costa.
Si parca n-as prefera sa imi fac mana pe propria masina Nu vrei sa vii tu cu AMG-ul?

[Baracuda]

Este un ghid complet, nu zice nimeni sa cumperi acum tot din el. Dar poti cumpara lucruri pe care le faci cu mana ta : Sampon, tar/bug remover, clay bar, ceara, spray pt geamuri + "carpe". Scumpe nu sunt...adica sunt mai ieftine decat ce gasim prin benzinarii.

De polish nici eu nu ma ating, nu ma pricep si nu vreau sa vad ce culoare are caroseria

Daca vreti polish profesional (Nu expertrahat) cautati Top Lac. Folosesc produse din gama Meguires si sunt axati pe vopsitorie. Adica nu vine orice gigel care a invatat cum sta treaba cu bufferu sa va lase autografe pe masina.

[.:indie:.]

Pai si de unde le cumperi si la ce pret?
De exemplu o cutie de ceara formula1 care e buna e aprox 20 lei in benzinarie.
MadeinChina zicea ca si-a luat niste ceara automagic care e mai buna, dar e si 1.5 mil.

Eu am vazut cum au lucrat cei de la expert pe masina unui tip de pe clubc4 si a iesit extrem de bine (i-au polishat niste zgarieturi, arata ca noua)
Deci zic eu ca daca nimeresti la cine se pricepe si esti atent cu iei iti iese tzutz
--------------------
Editare ulterioară
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PS: poate vreun moderator poate sa puna ghidul asta, foarte util de altfel ca un thread introduction or smtg aici
Detailing

[Baracuda]

Pai eu vreau sa cumpar direct de pe site. O sa ii trimit tipului in mail sa intreb daca trimit in Europa. Daca nu, comand prin cineva din state.

Eu mai mult am pus ghidul pentru tehnica, nu stiu cat de bune sunt produsele. La "ei" vad ca sunt destul de laudate, cel putin pe MB forum.

Am luat si eu ieri F1 dintr-un MOL, era 250mii. Problema e ca nu scrie ce concentratie de caranuba are si nici daca este naturala sau sintetica. O ceara buna nu are cum sa coste doar 250mii.

Mie asta nu-mi place la Expertdetailing, faza cu "nimeresti la cine se pricepe". Si daca nu nimeresc ? Daca imi face ala masina ca naiba cum au mai fost cazuri de urme de polizor ramase pe capota la polish ? Nu am chef de batai de cap

Urmaresc un forum de detailing din UK iar acolo vad ca majoritatea lauda Swissvax. Am vazut masini reconditionate si am ramas uimit. Nu stiu cat de mult conteaza produsele si cat de mult conteaza mana de lucru dar masinile aratau incredibil. Vin oameni care abea scot masina din reprezentanta nou nouta si o duc la polish. Se vede o diferenta mare chiar pe masina noua

http://www.swissvax.com/


Glad to hear you've been looking around our site and found some good
products to meet your needs. We are very happy to ship products
internationally through the USPS. We pride ourselves on fast and reliable
international shipping! To purchase the products you should create an
account on www.detailedimage.com and then select the items you want. Click
checkout and you'll be given shipping options and you can pick out the
one that works best for you. Then we'll ship out your products within
1 - 2 business days.


Cam asta tre facut pentru a comanda. Simplu si rapid, cel putin asa se lauda

Daca va faceti cont aici aveti si 10% reducere http://mbworld.org/forums/index.php

[Omul cu cablul]

Daca o sa pui niste poze cu AMGul dupa toaleta de dimineata sa vezi ce popular devine threadul
Eventual chemi pe vreunul din fotografii forumului (ca avem destui ) sa prinda umbrele si reflexiile artistic... Nu serios, chiar ar merita sa imortalizezi roadele muncii

[.:indie:.]

Nu stiu cat de mult conteaza produsele si cat de mult conteaza mana de lucru dar masinile aratau incredibil. Vin oameni care abea scot masina din reprezentanta nou nouta si o duc la polish. Se vede o diferenta mare chiar pe masina noua http://forum.computergames.ro/../ima...lies/shrug.gif

http://www.swissvax.com/

cred ca mai degraba se duc la ceruit decat la polish. N-are sens sa faci polish unei masini noi.

[peshte]

ei...e un oarecare sens.
fabrica vopseste caroseria si atat, si daca te vei uita atent vei observa ca vopseaua nu e perfecta, sunt mici valuri, aproape insesizabile, un aspect asemenea coajei de portocala/lamaie/grapefruit si nu ca cea de banana( )
chestia asta se rezolva prin polishare, dar problema e ca daca fabrica nu a dat mai multe straturi de samanta(nu prea sunt cazuri oricum) sa nu ai ce indeparta.

[.:indie:.]

haoleu, fabrica vopseste caroseria si da cu lac protector
polishul pe vopsea se face in caz de extreme zgarieturi.
Masina noua nu are nevoie de absolut nici un polish, ci de o ceara superbuna care sa protejeze zgarieturile fine din lac (care oricum ies la polish fin) si sa puna in valoare culoarea (de ex negrul dat cu ceara buna se vede si mai intens, mai `curat`) + stralucire.

[peshte]

dar vopseaua tot nu e perfecta...in multe/putine cazuri.
e adevarat am vazut si unele masini la care nu se observa, nu stiu daca au avut grija proprietarii sau a venit asa din fabrica.
ceea ce stiu e ca la dacia mea nu e perfecta